This wine is Xantos! Patriarch Bessarion is said to have exclaimed this during the Ecumenical Council of Florence in 1349, emphasizing the strong similarity between the well-known Tuscan wine made from dried grapes and the sweet wine already widespread in Greece, thus coining the name that has survived to this day: Vin Santo.
This, however, is not the only theory surrounding its origins; the adjective reveals origins directly linked to the Christian sacraments and its use during the Eucharist, so much so that it has earned the nickname “Vin de’ preti” (Priests’ Wine). Alternatively, it could derive from the Feast of All Saints in November, the month in which its production begins, or from Holy Week in March, the period in which the drying of the grapes ends or when bottling begins.
Whatever the origin of the name, what is certain is that this very particular wine has a very ancient tradition. Since the Middle Ages, the wealthy classes have been known to favor wines with residual sugars. These wines were more valuable due to the costly production method and therefore easily distinguishable from the dry, “garbi” wines consumed by the common people.
The first official mention of Vin Santo in a written document dates back to 1773 in Cosimo Villafranchi’s Oenologia Toscana. Starting in the early 19th century, we witnessed the so-called ruralization of this product, meaning the custom of farmers to also produce a small gem alongside their everyday wine, one made from grapes left to dry and reserved for holidays, special occasions, or simply to honor a visiting friend. Therefore, it was not a wine intended for commercial sale; the quantities were too small and the work too laborious to even consider assigning a price. The product’s exclusivity and rarity are confirmed in Arturo Marescalchi’s 1920 work, “The Tasting and Appreciation of Wines,” in which “forced and holy wines” were classified as luxury.
It was a short step from this aura of preciousness to the debasement of Vin Santo as a discount product for dipping cantuccini biscuits. What is Vin Santo really? Specifically, the one from Chianti Classico, its native region?
Leaving aside the lowly industrial versions, this is a wine without equal in the Italian wine scene, defined as almost magical and alchemical. According to tradition, which still endures today, during the harvest the winemaker selects the best vine shoots with just a few bunches remaining, to hang from the ceiling for drying, known in jargon as “penzoli.” It’s interesting to consider this aspect related to the arrangement of the grapes, which over time were placed to dry on racks, mats, inside the drying rooms. It was Maestro Tachis, for the Tenuta Riseccoli, who recommended and thus revived the tradition of hanging the grapes, thus reducing their exposure to the risk of unwanted rot. Which grapes? Mainly white: San Colombano, Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia Bianca Lunga del Chianti. Red grapes are very rarely used. The drying process typically lasts until the Christmas holidays, when the bunches are “picked” by hand and pressed. The resulting must is placed in small barrels, or casks, of various sizes but never exceeding 110 liters. These barrels are artisanally made and made from a variety of woods, including oak, cherry, pear, apple, and acacia. Chestnut is rarely used because it releases tannins. The casks are filled to about 70% capacity, then kept empty, along with the “madre,” the final lees from the last racking, and sealed with sealing wax or cement. The casks are placed in attics to benefit from the sharp summer/winter temperature variations, with repeated fermentation arrests, evaporation, and slow oxidation. This is how the magic of Vin Santo is created, a blessing and a curse for winemakers, the most uncontrollable wine of all, unmanageable during fermentation. Opening the casks often reveals surprises, both positive and negative. In this wine, oxidation is deliberate but well-calibrated and controlled, with a subtle hint of acetaldehyde. The wine can age in small barrels for many years, even over a decade, a circumstance that, along with the demanding winemaking method, justifies its price.
Entering the technical perimeter, that of the Disciplinary, “Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC”, approved in 1995, we learn that it is permitted to produce it with Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia, alone or together, minimum 60%” and in the Occhio di Pernice version, in truth very rare, with Sangiovese, minimum 80%. The residual percentages are composed of a vast number of varieties suitable for cultivation within the Tuscany Region and reported in a specific appendix. The production area of the grapes is the same as the Chianti Classico DOCG denomination, almost identical to that already identified by Cosimo III de’ Medici with the famous Edict of 1716. As regards the vinification parameters, a minimum aging period of 24 months has been established, in wooden barrels with a capacity not exceeding 3 hectoliters and with a minimum total alcoholic strength by volume of 16% vol., of which at least 10.5% is obtained. Recently the The regulations have broadened the scope of the typicality of Vin Santo del Chianti Classico, allowing for a darker shade of color, including brown, and a sweeter flavor, in addition to dry and semi-sweet. These changes are not so much to distort a wine that has traditionally been amber-colored and slightly sugary in its flavors, but because certain producers interpret Vin Santo, whether due to a particular terroir or winemaking philosophy, with a more open and mellow soul, closer to traditional passito wines made from white grapes, while maintaining the ethereal and tertiary spirit typical of this Tuscan nectar.
What can you expect from a great Vin Santo del Chianti Classico under the organoleptic lens? Some notes are shared, others depend on the production style. The most typical colors are bright amber, topaz, mahogany, and antique gold. The nose and palate are guided by the degree of sweetness; where dryness dominates, recurring sensations are amaretto, hazelnut, and Toasted almonds, aromas of undergrowth, ginger, and pine resin. When the balance shifts toward the residual sugar, nuances of dried apricot, date, barley caramel, and chestnut honey become exuberant. In both cases, everything is seasoned with well-controlled traces of sealing wax and enamel. The flavor opens with a sweetness that is not at all sticky, continually enlivened by the savory quality. The finish is clean and lingers with a long and satisfyingly intense aromatic persistence.
Vin Santo production styles significantly change its food pairings. In modern times, it has always been considered a dessert wine, a role we can agree with, but with some caveats. Being a “sweet, not sweet” wine with a strong acidity, supported by volatile acidity, it goes without saying that it doesn’t pair well with overly rich desserts, such as custard, cream, leavened pastries, and sponge cake. It does, however, favor all dry pastries where sugar is only a secondary ingredient, such as the famous Cantucci di Prato biscuits with almonds. A brief but necessary aside: no wine worthy of any dignity can be “downgraded” to a liquid for dipping biscuits. This established tavern practice is due to poor fortified versions of Vin Santo that have nothing in common with the noble wine profiled in this article. Other ideal pairings include Brutti Ma Buoni, Panforte, Cavallucci di Siena, Panpepato, fig shortbread, nougat, and Addormentasuocere. All pairings enhance the toasted, spicy, and ethereal notes of Vin Santo, while also striking the perfect balance between alcohol and succulence.
When certain dryness and ethereal/toasty notes decisively overwhelm the residual sugar, the Vin Santo del Chianti Classico embraces certain Oristano, if not even transalpine, atmospheres, towards the walnut and mushroom hints of the Vin Jaune.
At the table, Vin Santo transforms, shedding its dessert-like companionship to take on unusual and unexpected connotations. It’s a must-try in this case with blue cheeses: aged Gorgonzola, Stilton, and Roquefort. It will undoubtedly leave you speechless when paired with the slightly bitter taste of chicken livers, whether Rocher or sautéed.
It can be unique and aristocratic with foie gras crème brûlée.
Finally, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico can be a worthy end to a meal, even without any pairings, or with chocolate pralines, as long as they’re not too dark, or with an Antico Toscano cigar. Even simply for a convivial evening in front of the fire, a wine that warms the heart and stimulates thought.
Valentino Tesi
(June 2024)
