Fortunately, we are increasingly moving away from the figure of the sommelier who wanders among the tables, “fat,” with a serious look and liturgical mannerisms, like a priest.
A bearer of obscure knowledge, not to be revealed: the secrets of wine! Asking him a question is a heroic act; venturing into independent bottle selections by consulting the list is a bold gesture!
The old-fashioned sommelier, the one who increasingly risked turning consumers away from wine, a tiresome, unattractive figure who actually caused restaurant patrons to lose, is increasingly rare.
The sommelier of 2023, on the other hand, is smart, a communications professional. He disseminates wine knowledge in a fun way, without being burdensome or creating the feeling of an awkward presence between the customer and the wine list. Clothing is also changing, with textile companies competing to create increasingly trendy, casual service uniforms that maintain a high level of etiquette, yet convey the impression of a service provider who isn’t overly constrained by codified rules, but rather open and ready to adapt to the individual customer’s personality.
A helper and guide within the dining room, with whom to engage, whether briefly or at length, in conversation about a dish pairing, the aftertaste of a wine, or the history of a winery, creating the impression that everything is tangible, accessible to every wine enthusiast or connoisseur. Without pretension, arrogance, or heaviness, the sommelier is an added value, an additional service to the customer that not all establishments can afford. Thus, when one is missing, the topic of wine shifts to improvisation, to do-it-yourself, lowering the level of the emotional experience.
Nowadays, sommeliers work in a wide variety of fields, from journalism to blogging to social media. Some are professionals in the retail sector, others are brand ambassadors for small or large brands. Then there are the course instructors and food and wine consultants. An army of sommeliers, a large group of wine communication professionals, has finally emerged from restaurants and wine shops, once exclusive venues, to serve those eager to learn more.
Conscious eating and drinking makes everything more fascinating. A country like Italy, with its rich food and wine heritage, should focus and invest more in services like those of the sommelier. We have a heritage to share, to make known and appreciated, no one like us! And within this system comes the professional figure of the modern sommelier, one who uses simple terminology, not overly technical but easy to understand. Now that the era of obscurantism is over, wine is a subject that has transcended the narrow circle of enthusiasts, becoming one of the most frequent topics of conversation. Even on TV quizzes, it’s not uncommon to find wine-related questions in general knowledge questions.
So the next time you enter a restaurant and want to enhance your food and wine experience, when the waiter or head waiter asks, “What would you like?” “A sommelier, please.”
Valentino Tesi
(December 2022)
